BMC Junior Bouldering Cup 2015 – Round 1 (Derby)

BMC Junior Bouldering Cup 2015 – Round 1 (Derby)

This morning we got up at 6 and went downstairs in the hotel for breakfast, I had hash browns, bacon and milk, After this we got in the car and went to The Climbing Unit for the Junior Bouldering Cup.

I was really excited about this competition because it is my favourite bouldering competition of the year. I had a look at my qualifiers, three looked quite hard but the others looked OK. I registered, got a number 156 and score sheet. We had to wait a while before the competition started so I read the routes some more and warmed up.

The first three routes I did were really easy, they were numbers 4, 3 and 2. I managed to top them all first go. I was happy about this so I moved around to the next bay. There were two more easy climbs here so I attempted them. Number 8 was on the arret and number 7 was on the corner. I also topped these first go.

There were three hard qualifiers left but I decided to go for number 6 first because it was the closest. I tried it, got the bonus and matched the top out of control and fell. I was so annoyed that it didn’t count because I was so close.

After this I moved around to number 1. I went straight to the volume from the start hold, slapped it and fell off. I realised I should have gone the other way and put my card in for a second attempt. I knew what I was going to do this time and I was confident. For my second attempt I went to the arret and easily got to the hold on the volume. I got my foot up onto the top of the volume – I couldn’t put it on the side wall because of other holds which were in the way. Instead, I put my foot on top of the volume and pulled up to the top. I couldn’t quite reach it and then my foot slid off the volume so I fell. I wanted to try again because I knew I could have done it – it was just a foot slip. I was cross that my foot slipped so I had a break before attempting it again. On my last attempt the same thing happened – my foot slipped off the volume. I felt gutted and wished that I could have another go because I knew I could do it.

I moved on to number 5. On my first go on 5 I got to the roof and jumped for the second last hold and missed it. I was annoyed but decided to have another go – this time I managed to hit and almost grabbed it. After another quick break I went to try number 6 again – I only had 2 more attempts on number 6 and on both of them I swung off the top hold so I didn’t match it in a controlled way.

My last attempt on number 5 was good – I managed to grab the sloper but fell off because I didn’t stick it.

I wasn’t pleased with my result but thought that I would qualify. We had 2hrs left until isolation opened so we went to the Toby Carvery for lunch where I had a roast pork bap!

When we got back to the centre I saw that I had qualified 3rd behind Kirsten and Rose. Kirsten managed to top number 1 and Rose got the bonus first go. I was happy to get into the final but was disappointed with my performance so far.

I was looking forward to the final because I always do better in finals than qualifiers. In isolation we waited an hour to climb but then we were told they were 10 minutes behind. Isolation was boring but we found a few fun things to do like playing catch with medicine balls and playing cards.

Finally we were called to look at the problems. I really liked the problems but the first one looked too easy for a final. After the observation period (6 minutes) we went back into isolation. I wait about 20 minuted for my turn on the first problems. I topped the route first go quite quickly – it wasn’t too bad.

The second route was much more difficult. My first attempt on the route was good but I didn’t manage to get to the disc so I jumped off so I wouldn’t waste too much energy on this attempt. On my second attempt I got to the disc and swung up to the bonus. It was a really good hold and I managed to move to the second top from it. I fell into the undercut and went for the top. I topped the route and I was really happy.

After sharing scores with the other competitors I knew that if I topped the next route I had won. I was really determined to do it and thought it was easier than the second. The first part was pretty easy and I managed to get the bonus quickly. I matched the bonus and then unmatched and stuck my foot out onto the side wall. I moved my other foot down a hold and replaced my foot on the side for a hand. This way I could pull on the bonus and chimney to the top. I was really happy when I topped this because I knew I had won.

I watched Kirsten and Rose climb and then my mum asked Rob if I could have my prize because I had an exam the next day and needed to get back home in time to revise and have an early night.

As my prize I got a DMM kit bag, a medal and a certificate.

It was a really good comp. and the routes were interesting especially the qualifiers. I am looking forward to the next round.

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